Update 08/20/2009: This car has been sold. Thanks, Bill! Everyone else, thanks for your interest.
Due to an upcoming move, I am selling my beloved 1973 Porsche 914 2.0. This is generally considered the most valuable year and option package for the 4 cylinder 914s. It is an older restoration with no significant rust issues (extremely rare for these cars). The engine was rebuilt by the previous owner and the car has been driven little since. It has the side shift 5 speed transmission, front and rear sway bars, center console, and upgraded exhaust with stainless heat exchangers. The heat actually works.
This car has the original fuel injection system (again, very rare in these cars) and runs great. The motor is powerful and smooth. It needs a couple of cosmetic items I don’t have time to fix in the near future so I am discounting the car. These issues are minor. Ex: paint bubble on trunk lid, glue down dash cover, front spoiler needs to be reattached. The area under the battery, side reinforcements, and other critical areas are in great shape.
The low retail on this 2.0 model is over $12,000 according to NADA. Due to this move I’m selling it for $6000 obo. Please respond by email. No tire kickers. No owner financing offered. Thanks for your interest.
See pictures, attached.
Notes on pictures
I found two minor rust spots on the bottom of the car that should be fixed and painted or undercoated. One was a small section of reinforcement rib on the driver’s side about 1/2 of the way down the car. It looks like a small section (1″) was cut and folded over. The other is a spot on the rear bottom jack pad (corner near engine compartment). There is a quarter sized area where rust is starting. The rust in the rear trunk is superficial. I drilled three small holes to help it drain in the off chance that water ever gets in there again. There is no sign of this currently happening.
In these pictures, you can also see the small bubbles on the rear lid and one near the front lid on the 1/4 panel. You may notice some “brown stuff” on the back of the engine compartment and some in the front trunk. That’s from where carpet and insulating material was glued on. I still have these pieces if you want them but my intent was to clean those areas when I had time and leave the junk off.
I’m trying to be as honest as possible about the condition of this car. I do believe that it’s in truly rare shape, especially in this price range. If you want to see any additional pictures, please comment or email me and I will oblige.
For those of you who are building a 1911 or completely stripped one for cleaning, here are the steps to take to put the pistol together:
Assembling the Colt 1911 & Clones
- Reassemble magazine. Depress and retain spring with a punch. Then drop the follower into place and release the punch and spring
- Reassemble mainspring housing
- Reassemble magazine catch
- Put link in barrel
- Drop in trigger
- Magazine catch (button flush with frame)
- Reassemble sear/ disconnector, firing pin safety lifter (newer models). Use firing pin to hold assembly.
- Install hammer and hammer pin (strut will swing free)
- Install Sear spring / housing / safety. These steps are related. Place left spring leg on sear, then slide spring into notch at bottom. Install mainspring housing about halfway. Then put hammer strut unto place on plunger. Now insert grip safety and use thumb safety to hold in place. Tap pin into mainspring housing.
- Remove thumb safety. Now put plunger assembly into pluger tube. Start safety in, depress plunger with screwdriver and then press safety into place.
- Put in extractor almost all the way
- Put in safety plunger and spring (newer models)
- Put closed end of spring on firing pin
- Insert firing pin (depress safety plunger if applicable)
- Install firing pin stop plate
- Insert barrel, lugs should engage
- Install barrel bushing. Rotate to side so that the recoil spring will slide in.
- Reassemble guide into recoil spring
- Put recoil spring in slide
- Rest barrel link on guide, lower safety, then put slide on frame. This should line up the link with the hole in the frame
- Insert slide stop, press down and up to engage plunger into slide stop
- Install recoil spring plug, then insert and rotate barrel bushing
I hope I have more time to elaborate on this in the near future. For now, here’s a tip that might save you some searching.
I’m putting together a site that handles multiple clients, each of which have their own domain. I want to be able to modify the default page served for particular clients, if need be. So, I’ve created a page override system that will do the following:
- A user requests page /default.aspx for a particular domain. That page is derived from a custom class, called ClientPage. ClientPage maps the domain in the Request to the client id.
- ClientPage searches a registry of page overrides. This is just a simple class that identifies all pages in directories of the format /Override/ClientName/. Since File IO is involved in this process, I cache the results for subsequent fast access.
- If an override page is registered, I perform a Server.Transfer to the registered page
Ooops. At this point the page would transfer but the code in the parent class that identifies overrides was going into an infinite loop. Why? - because it was looking at the Page.Request object, which still shows the information of the original request.
Here’s the trick in ASP.NET 2.0 +. Look at the Page.PreviousPage property. If it is set (not null), break out of your loop. Note that this property will also be set if you are doing crosspage posting.
Hope this helps someone else.
Thanks for all the gifts and congratulations, but just for the record - I am not the 22 year old woman who recently married Gary Coleman. However, wedding contributions can be directed to my PayPal account and I’ll - ahem - make sure they get to the right place.
Here’s the story: LINK
I would like to thank the couple because my Google PageRank has soared from 0.0 to 0.1 as a result of their marriage. Unfortunately it keeps getting rounded down:
…and I’m not sure how this got here:
I’m making a quick note here to help out those who may be considering an APC Universal Notebook Battery.
I have an old Averatec 3200 series notebook that is outdated, but I couldn’t justify buying a replacement. Unfortunately, like most notebooks, the battery died about two years into its lifespan. The battery only supports about 5 minutes of runtime right now. Looking around, replacement batteries for this notebook are over $100 and the age of the batteries are unknown. Some sources said they are not even manufactured anymore. It’s hard to justify $100 for a battery for a notebook that can be replaced by a superior new model for $300.
Instead, I decided to try a universal battery - the APC Universal Notebook Battery 70, which runs about $128 at Amazon. The idea is that although it increases the size and weight of my notebook considerably, I can reuse it when I upgrade my notebook computer. I took a gamble because the official APC compatibility guide does not list the Averatec 3200 series, although it does mention other models.
I’m here to tell those who are Googling the same thing I did that it WILL work with the 3200. Just set the voltage to 19 volts and use the B adapter.
Another note - this thing comes with a cool “Y” adapter. You plug your exiting notebook cord to charge both the external battery and power the notebook. The Y adapter has connections to the external, your notebook, and the power supply.
If I can benchmark runtimes, I will post them here. I expect to get about 3 hours of runtime with the new battery.